Nest Box Basics

by Peter Tursa

Nest Box designs come in all sizes, shapes and materials.  I’ve just put together some ideas that I’ve used that may be helpful for the beginner or even the seasoned breeder.

First thing to consider is will the box I build fit in through the cage door!  It’s amazing how often we don’t think about the obvious.  Second, the box has to be large enough for the rabbit using it and third will it be easily accessible by me the breeder when checking on the litter.

I make my nest boxes out of plywood and use  wood bottoms.  I know that many breeders don’t like the wood bottoms because they retain the urine and droppings but it’s always worked for me.  However, it’s important that at around the 10 day mark after kindling to go into the box and replace the soiled material with fresh stuff.  Does the trick for me.  If you don’t replace the soiled material you often get eye problems with the kits such as their eyes not opening or getting infected.

Here is the schedule I use with my nest boxes:

1.  Place box in cage with doe            :           3- 5 days before kindling (26 – 28 days after breeding)

               (I fill the box with barley straw and couple of handfuls of wood shavings)

2.  Replace soiled nest box material  : 10 – 12 days after kindling

3.  Remove nest box from cage:        :  21 days after kindling

In the summer I collect fur from does that pull an abundance of fur.  I place this collected fur in a bag that breathes (I use my feed bags which are a woven plastic type) and hang them up in the barn.  Then in the winter when I have a doe that does not pull enough fur in the cold weather I just add fur to the nest box from the summer supply.  The receiving doe is not bothered by it and it helps to keep the kits warm.

See the next post for my design and assembly instructions for building wooden nest boxes.

If you have found this article helpful or have suggestions you would like to make; feel free to contact me via www.Tursaco.com  in which you’ll find a contact page.